Basic Care for Musical Instruments

A well-cared-for instrument lasts for decades and, in some cases, for centuries. Violins built in the seventeenth century are still played today, and century-old pianos can be restored. A neglected instrument, on the other hand, can crack, corrode, or lose its tuning within a few months. The good news is that most of the care comes down to simple habits rather than expensive equipment.

Humidity and temperature: the main enemies

Wood, the central material in guitars, violins, pianos, and many wind instruments, reacts to its surroundings. It absorbs moisture and expands when the air is humid, and it gives up water and shrinks when the air is dry. If these changes happen quickly, internal stresses build up, causing cracks, joints coming apart, and a warped neck.

A practical guideline is to keep the room between 40% and 55% relative humidity and to avoid abrupt temperature swings. To do this, it helps to:

• use an inexpensive hygrometer to measure the humidity of the room;
• in dry climates or air-conditioned rooms, keep the instrument in its case with an appropriate humidifier;
• in damp places, use silica gel packets or dehumidifiers to prevent mold, rust, and swelling;
• avoid leaving the instrument near windows, heaters, air-conditioning vents, and areas exposed to sunlight.

The car is one of the worst places to leave an instrument. Heat inside can soften glues and varnishes, and the contrast with the outside temperature encourages cracking. After transporting an instrument through very cold or very hot conditions, leave the case closed for a while so the instrument can adjust gradually before you open it and tune.

Proper cleaning for each material

Each material calls for different care.

Steel, nylon, and gut strings: wipe them with a soft, dry cloth after every session, because sweat and skin oils speed up corrosion and dull the tone. On bowed instruments, also remove the excess rosin that builds up under the strings and on the top with a soft cloth.

Varnished wood bodies: use a dry microfiber cloth. Avoid household cleaners, alcohol, and solvents, which can damage the finish. For polishes, choose products recommended by the manufacturer or by a luthier.

Fingerboard and frets: on acoustic and electric guitars, grime collects between the frets. Clean with a soft cloth and, if necessary, with a product made for fingerboards. Conditioning an unfinished wooden fingerboard, such as ebony or rosewood, should follow the manufacturer's guidance.

Woodwinds and brass: pass a swab or cloth through the body after playing to remove moisture from your breath. On a flute, use a cleaning rod with a cloth to dry the inside and a clean cloth to wipe fingerprints from the outside. On reed instruments such as the saxophone and clarinet, rinse the mouthpiece and dry the reed, storing it in its own case. Specific details about the flute show why a dry interior protects the pads and the key mechanism.

Brass: wash the inside with lukewarm water and mild soap from time to time, and lubricate valves and slides with a suitable oil.

Caring for the piano

The piano is a heavy, sensitive instrument, and the rules change a little. It should stay away from damp exterior walls, windows with direct sun, and heat sources. It should also be kept in a room with a stable climate, because humidity swings affect the pinblock that holds the tuning pins, the soundboard, and the action.

There are three fundamental measures:

1. Regular tuning: at least once a year. Strings under great tension change with time, even when unused.
2. Regulation of the action: with use, felts and other components wear, and the touch becomes uneven. A technician adjusts the response of the keys and hammers. To understand what is being adjusted, see the inner workings of the piano.
3. Careful exterior cleaning: a soft, dry cloth, with no liquids. The keyboard lid can stay closed when the piano is not in use, to protect the keys from dust and light.

Do not place vases, glasses, or heavy objects on top of the instrument. Spills and vibrations can cause damage that is difficult to repair.

Storage, transport, and daily use

The case is the first line of defense. Choose one that fits the shape of the instrument and check that it closes well, with room for accessories that do not press against the body. When storing guitars and other stringed instruments for a long time, some manufacturers recommend slightly easing the string tension, but without neglecting humidity.

During use, adopt a few practices:

• wash and dry your hands before playing;
• rest the instrument on a stable stand, away from places where it could fall;
• avoid leaning it against walls or chairs;
• take off watches, bracelets, and belt buckles that could scratch the body;
• for instruments with a strap, check periodically that the attachment is secure.

When to see a professional

Some signs show that a problem can no longer be solved at home: cracks, tuning pegs that will not hold, a bridge coming unglued, loose frets, broken reeds, pads that leak air, or keys that do not spring back. In these cases, seek out a professional. The work of a luthier includes structural repairs, string height adjustments, and restoration of finishes.

It is also useful to know the structure of your instrument so you know what to examine. A guitar, for example, has parts that suffer most under string tension, such as the top and the neck, as described in the anatomy of the acoustic guitar. A monthly visual inspection, looking at joints, tuning pegs, and the curve of the neck, lets you catch problems before they get worse.

Where to Go From Here

Build a short routine: wipe the instrument down after playing, check the room humidity once a week, and review strings and tuning pegs every month. Write down the dates of string changes and visits to the technician, so you notice changes in behavior sooner. To check what you have learned about instruments, test your knowledge in the quiz.